 An
Archaeological Study Tour
Khmer
Kingdoms
Burma
(Myanmar), Thailand, Laos & Cambodia
Including 5 days at Angkor Wat
January
6- 30, 2009
Led
By Professor Richard
Cooler
This
tour will focus on the historical, ethnographic and religious
aspects of these exotic lands. We begin in Luang Praban,
Laos, one of the loviest cities in the region. Dominated
by the Mekong River, Laos has assimilated ideas and culture
from both China and the Indian subcontinent. We will find
examples of its distinctive character in Vientiane and at
the magnificent 7th-century Khmer ruins of Wat Phou.
Myanmar (Burma) was closed to foreigners from 1961 until
recent years; its glittering pagodas, golden temples and
saffron-robed monks create a wondrous atmosphere of vibrant
color. We will have the unique opportunity to see this picturesque
and gentle land on the threshold of transformation. Our
visits will include ancient royal capitals, deserted royal
cities, as well as some of the thousands of pagodas and
temples.
Thailand offers an exotic blend of ancient history and natural
beauty. For nearly two thousand years its countryside has
seen rulers and cities rise and fall, and for the last thousand
it has been the heartland of Theravada Buddhism. Much of
this legacy remains in the art and architecture of its temples
and towns and the still-honored customs of earlier court-centered
civilizations. Our tour will explore this past by visiting
the major Khmer ruins in remote Isan (northeastern Thailand).
Cambodia is a country of contrasts: active Buddhist monasteries,
teeming markets, spectacular palaces and, of course, the
incomparable complex of Angkor Wat. Our time will be divided
between bustling Phnom Penh and serene Siem Reap, where
our five and a half days will provide ample time to explore
the Angkor ruins from every perspective. As we travel through
these wonderful places, we will have the opportunity to
experience traditional music and dance, sample the local
foods, examine crafts and explore lively markets.
Tuesdday,
Wednesday, January 6 & 7:
Departure from Los Angeles via Thai Airways.
Thursday, January 8: LUANG PRABANG:
Connect in Bangkok to Luang Prabang, considered by Southeast
Asia aficionados to be the loveliest in the region. This
evening we will meet for our opening lecture and dinner.
Meals; Dinner
Friday,
Saturday, Sunday, January 9, 10 & 11: LUANG PRABANG:
Our leisurely days in Luang Prabang will include visits
to the former palace of the Lao kings, transformed into
an excellent museum, the lovely Wat May and some of the
wonderful royal wats on Mount Phousi. On Sunday we will
travel by boat on the Mekong to visit the Pak Ou Caves,
where we will see a vast array of Buddhist images in many
ancient styles. There will be time to stroll in the markets
and relax at the hotel. Maison Suvannaphoum.
Meals;
Breakfast daily, 2 lunches & 2 dinners
Monday,
January 12: PAKSE:
This morning we fly to Pakse. Our touring here will be to
the remote and unspoiled Angkor-period site of Wat Phou
(Mountain Temple) on the lower slopes of Phu Pasak. We will
have ample time to study this lovely spot, whose uppermost
pavilions and sanctuaries are reached by a stairway overgrown
with fragrant jasmine trees. Champa Residence.
Meals:
Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Tuesday,
January 13: KORAT:
This morning we cross the border into Thailand at Mek Pass
and continue to the rarely visited Wat Prasat Phnom Rung.
Built over a period of 200 years, it stands on top of an
inactive volcano overlooking the Thai-Cambodia border. This
sanctuary with its monumental stairway is thought to have
been a stopping-off point on the road from Angkor to Phimai.
Sima Thani Hotel.
Meals:
Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Wednesday, January 14: KORAT:
Touring today will be to the ancient Khmer-style ruins of
Phimai. Apart from Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the Khmer sites
of this region are the best representatives of this distinctive
period. Built between AD 986 and 1001, Phimai is one of
the oldest and best-preserved temples of this area. Return
to Korat in time to explore the town. (B/L)
Meals; Breakfast & lunch
Thursday,
January 15: BANGKOK:
Today we drive to Bangkok, stopping to tour Ayutthaya, capital
of Siam from 1350 to 1767. As time permits, we will visit
several beautifully restored temples at this UNESCO World
Heritage Site, including the fabulous collection of gold
jewelry and religious objects in the National Museum. Novotel
Airport Hotel.
Meals;
Breakfast & lunch
Friday, January 16: YANGON:
A short flight to Myanmar and its capital, Yangon, formerly
known as Rangoon.We begin our touring of Yangon with a visit
to Burma's most important religious building, the Shwedagon
Pagoda. After lunch, we will drive through the heart of
the city to view the colonial buildings, with stops at the
golden chedi at Sule Pagoda, as well as the colorful Aunng
San market. Our overnight is at the deluxe Governor’s
Residence Hotel.
Meals; Breakfast & lunch
Saturday, January 17: MANDALAY:
A morning flight brings us to Myanmar’s cultural and
religious center, Mandalay, capital of the last Burmese
monarchs. Touring begins at the the Mahamuni Pagoda, the
holiest of Burmese shrines, where the devout continue to
apply layers of gold leaf to its Buddha. We then visit the
Kyauktawgyi Pagoda, with its images of Buddha’s 80
disciples standing guard, the beautifully adorned wooden
monastery of Shwesandaw monastery, the only remaining vestige
of the royal palace, and Kuthodaw Pagoda, which houses an
enormous carved book containing all of the Buddhist canons,
each page chiseled into a marble slab and housed in its
own shrine. This evening we will attend a typical puppet
show. Mandalay Hill Resort.
Meals:
Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Sunday, January 18: MANDALAY:
Driving south of Mandalay, we visit the deserted royal cities
of Amarapura and Ava. We will visit a functioning monastery
and witness the silent, ritual meal for over 500 monks.
After a stroll on Bo Bein’s mile long teak bridge,
we will stop at a shop where silk fabrics are still woven
by a rare technique once used for the royal family. After
lunch we ferry across the Myit Nge River to Ava, the 14th-century
Burmese capital. Traveling by pony cart across verdant rice
fields, we visit a traditional wooden monastery and stop
at Ava village to watch the lacquering of monk’s begging
bowls.
Meals:
Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Monday,
January 19: MANDALAY:
This morning we board a boat for a delightful excursion
up the Irrawaddy to Mingun to see the partially constructed
pagoda begun in 1790 and known as “King Bodawpaya’s
Folly” for his attempt to construct the world’s
largest stupa. Among the monuments to be seen here is the
famous Mingun Bell, at 90 tons, one of the world’s
largest. In the afternoon we will visit some of Mandalay’s
royal craft guilds, including stone carvers, tapestry (Kalaga)
weavers, the beaters of gold leaf and the girls who produce
a unique “paper that makes gold grow.”
Meals:
Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Tuesday,
January 20: BAGAN:
A short flight brings us to Bagan (Pagan), the first capital
of united Burma, founded in AD 900 and containing over 5,000
pagodas and temples. Touring begins with selected temples
that are representatives of the major change in religious
architecture from the early “Mon” to the later,
fully developed Burmese style. We visit four very different
11th- century “Mon”-style temples: the Nanpaya,
the Manuha, the Nagayon and the Abeyadana, with its beautifully
restored Mahayana wall paintings. Thante Hotel.
Meals:
Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Wednesday,
January 21: BAGAN:
After an early morning carriage ride to one of the pagodas
to see the sunrise, we depart for charming Myinkaba, a village
that predates the founding of Bagan. Here we visit the first
of two transitional temples, the Kubyaukgyi Temple, which
has the most complete frescoes in Bagan, and then the Ananda
Temple; which is famous for its 3,000 images, including
four colossal images of the Buddha standing. Touring continues
at the Shwezigon Pagoda, which with Ananda are the only
temples at Bagan that have been in continuous use since
the 11th century and where the first shrine dedicated to
the 36 indigenous spirits (nats) is located. It is the archetype
for all later Burmese pagodas, including the Shwedagon in
Yangon and the Kuthodaw in Mandalay. There will be an opportunity
for an optional early morning hot air balloon flight over
Bagan.
Meals:
Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Thursday, January 22: BAGAN:
The day begins with a drive into the heart of the dry zone
to visit Mt. Popa, a dormant volcano that rises to a height
of 1,520 meters from lush groves of toddy palms and flowers
in the valley. Mt. Popa is the Mount Olympus of Burma where
abides the entire pantheon of 37 local spirits and is therefore
a pilgrimage site. We will visit the shrines housing these
spirits at the bottom of the mountain and watch the throngs
of pilgrims as they climb to the shrines that cling to the
mountain rocks. Returning to Bagan, we stop to see lacquer
ware being made and engraved by four different processes.
Meals:
Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Friday,
January 23: PHNOM PENH:
Our flight back to Yangon connects to our flight to the
Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh. We will transfer to the
Cambodiana Hotel, which looks out on the junction of four
great rivers: the Tonle Sap, the Upper Mekong, the Lower
Mekong and the Bassac. This evening we will take a sunset
cruise on the Tonle Sap River.
Meals:
Breakfast & dinner
Saturday,
January 24: PHNOM PENH:
A full morning will be spent at the National Museum, where
much of the sculpture and small objects from the temples
at Angkor are displayed. In the afternoon we will visit
the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda and explore the Central
and Russian markets.
Meals:
Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Sunday,
Monday, January 25 & 26: SIEM REAP:
A short flight brings us to Siem Reap and the centrally
located Sofitel Royal Hotel, our luxurious home for the
next five nights. As we will have five and a half days to
explore the amazing Angkor complex, we have the luxury of
scheduling our temple visits to retrace the historical development
of the architecture at this extraordinary site, with time
to return on our own. The first two days will be spent touring
the three older temples of the Roluos group, Angkor Thom
and the magnificent sanctuaries and temples of the Angkor
Wat complex, Banteay Samre, a Hindu temple dedicated to
Vishnu, as well as Prasat Kravan, with unique brick sculptures,
Banteay Kdei, Eastern Mebon, guarded by elephants and the
mountain temple of Pre Rup, which is lovely viewed at sunset.
During our stay, we have planned a dance performance and
other special events.
Meals:
Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Tuesday,
January 27: SIEM REAP:
We will visit three temples built by Jayavarman VII, Preah
Khan, Neak Pean and Ta Som, that are now under the auspices
of the World Monument Fund. We will tour Preah Khan and
discuss the professional restoration of these monuments.
Neak Pean is a totally novel construction of a religious
“spa” where the devout went to bathe. Ta Som
is an intimate structure until recently completely engulfed
by the forest but still having its monumental four faced
towers encased in living foliage. We will spend the afternoon
in the countryside visiting the lovely little temple of
Banteay Srei, remarkably preserved and so beautifully decorated
that its surface resembles carved sandalwood or ivory.
Meals:
Breakfast & lunch
Wednesday, January 28: SIEM REAP:
We will conclude our temple program this morning with a
walk through the temple of Ta Phrom, a magically overgrown
temple inhabited only by green parrots, where delicately
carved faces are cradled in the tendrils of strangler fig
trees. This afternoon we will visit the school and workshops
of the Artisan d’Angkor, a state school where traditional
Cambodian crafts are taught such as stone and wood carving,
ikat weaving, handmade paper accessories, jewelry and puppet
making.
Meals:
Breakfast & lunch
Thursday, January 29: SIEM REAP:
This day will be completely at leisure to revisit a favorite
monument or visit the central market, local shops or enjoy
the hotel facilities. We will offer an optional morning
excursion into the countryside, visiting Phnom Kulen, where
reclining Vishnus and hundreds of lingas have been carved
into the living rock of a riverbed, and Beng Mealea, a huge
12th-century complex completely surrounded by a massive
moat. Getting to this remote complex requires hiking and
is rewarded by the wonderful experience of exploring a site
completely overgrown with jungle vines and fig-tree roots.
Our stay ends with a gala farewell dinner at our hotel.
Breakfast
& dinner
Friday, January 30:
After a full morning at leisure, our flight to Bangkok connects
to our Thai Airways flight departing this evening, arriving
in Los Angeles Friday night.
Meals:
Breakfast
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