An
Archaeological Study Tour
Malta,
Sardinia & Corsica
May
4 21, 2011
Led
by Professor
Robert R. Stieglitz
The
Mediterranean islands are like a protest of the habitable
earth against the emptiness of the seas. Each has its own
characteristic geological environment and has developed
its own cultural and political history. They were a refuge
for those peoples whose cultures and lifestyles were submerged
on the mainlands but were able to survive on the islands,
and are therefore treasure-houses of the oldest, protohistoric
Mediterranean civilizations: the megalithic temples of Malta,
the nuraghes of Sardinia and the open-air sanctuaries and
mysterious cult sites of Corsica. In the historical period,
Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Crusader knights,
Turks, Spaniards, Italians, French and British fought over
these islands, ruled over them and left their indelible
marks in the monuments and cultures of the people still
living there today. Spectacular scenery, sunny skies and
warm weather will enhance the exploration of these ancient
civilizations.
Wednesday, Thursday, May 4 & 5: VALLETTA: Depart
from our home cities Wednesday evening and arrive into Malta
midday Thursday. We will transfer to the Phoenicia HotelHotel
just outside the walls of Valletta. This evening we will
meet with Professor Stieglitz for an orientation lecture
and dinner at our hotel.
Meals: Dinner
Friday, May 6: VALLETTA: This full day will begin
at the Archaeological Museum, which displays a wonderful
collection of prehistoric material from the island. We will
then take a short walking tour in the old city, including
a visit to St. John’s Cathedral, which houses Caravaggio’s
The Beheading amongst its treasures. This afternoon touring
continues to Hal Saflieni, a vast rock-cut catacomb for
multiple burials, and Skorba, one of the earliest and continuously
inhabited sites on the island. We will visit the remains
of buildings that may have been shrines or prototemples
more than 5,000 years ago. The day concludes with a walking
tour in the old city of Mdina, twin city to Rabat. In Roman
times these cities were walled as one, but now their historic
streets and tiny plazas are purely Maltese in character.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Saturday,
May 7: VALLETTA: After a morning at leisure, our touring
will continue at Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, an extraordinary
complex occupying a marvelous site above the sea. These
temples are unusual for their beautifully dressed stones
and variety of altars. The temples of Tarxien, our last
site of the day, represent the finest architectural achievement
of their period. This evening we will walk into the old
city for dinner at one of the city’s fine restaurants.
Meals: Breakfast & dinner
Sunday,
May 8: VALLETTA: We will travel to the far end of the
island and take a ferry to the island of Gozo. Here we will
visit the prehistoric temples of Ggantija, which date from
3600 BCE and are archetypal of this phase. These well-preserved
temples have massive walls, some of which still rise to
a height of 17 feet. They are as awesome today as they must
have been in antiquity. We then visit the Archaeological
Museum and the Citadel in the old Norman town of Victoria
before returning to Valletta.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Monday, Tuesday, May 9 & 10: CAGLIARI: This morning
we will depart Malta arriving into Cagliari, Sardinia, in
the late afternoon. Touring Tuesday is within Cagliari and
includes the Archaeological Museum, the 13th century Romanesque-Gothic
Cathedral, the Roman Amphitheater, the 5th century St. Saturninus
Basilica, believed to be one of the oldest Christian churches
in the Mediterranean, and ends with a walking tour in the
Old Town. The afternoon will be at leisure. Hotel Regina
Margherita.
Meals: Breakfast daily & 1 dinner
Wednesday, May 11: CAGLIARI: Today’s itinerary
will take us to several Phoenician sites, beginning with
a scenic drive along the coast to the Phoenician town of
Nora to visit its Punic temple, houses, Roman theater and
baths. We then continue to the volcanic island of Sant’Antioco
to see a fascinating tophet and lastly, at Monte Sirai,
we will tour a Phoenician mining town.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Thursday, May 12: ORISTANO: During our stay on Sardinia
we will have the opportunity to examine several of the 7,000
nuraghes built throughout the island. These mysterious,
awe-inspiring, dry-stone monumental buildings have been
difficult to date. It is believed that during the second
millennium BCE, the Sardinian people developed into a more
complex society and began constructing these buildings as
temples, fortresses and dwellings. Driving north, we stop
at the megalithic cult center and cemetery of Pranu Muteddu,
with its menhirs and tumuli, and the spring sanctuary of
Santa Vittoria and continue to the largest nuraghic village
in Sardinia, Su Nuraxi, which has 396 houses and a massive
central structure. Our touring ends at the ancient Phoenician
and Roman town of Tharros. We overnight in medieval Oristano
at the Hotel Mistral II.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Friday, May 13: ALGHERO: Our touring begins at the
nuraghic complex of Losa and the sanctuary of Santa Cristina
and continues to the complex of Sant’Antine and the
rock-cut necropolis of Sant’Andrea Priu. We continue
to Alghero and spend two nights in this lovely port city,
which still retains its Catalan atmosphere. Hotel Catalunya.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Saturday,
May 14: ALGHERO: This morning we will visit the fascinating
Neolithic site of Monte d’Accoddi, a huge megalithic
altar set on a base of over ten meters. We will spend the
rest of the morning in Sassari, a delightful medieval town
nestling around its great cathedral. Our visit is to the
fine prehistoric Punic and Roman collections at the National
Museum. We have made special arrangements to visit Monte'e
Prama's restoration labratory before returning to Alghero
for an afternoon at leisure to explore the town or take
a boat trip to nearby grottoes.
Meals: Breakfast
Sunday, May 15: BONIFACIO: We begin a spectacular
drive through mountain villages and along winding coastal
roads, visiting the prehistoric cemetery of Li Muri and
the giants’ tombs Li Loghi and Coddu Vecchiu. We then
take a short ferry trip from Sardinia to Bonifacio, whose
fortified town perched atop the chalk cliffs appears on
the Corsican horizon as we approach. Hotel Solemare.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Monday,
May 16: BONIFACIO: This morning we will tour Bonifacio’s
old buildings remaining from the Pisan and Genoese periods,
as well as its fortifications, built in 830 CE by a Tuscan
margrave in order to repel a Saracen attack. The afternoon
will be at leisure to explore the town.
Meals: Breakfast
Tuesday, May 17: PROPRIANO: Driving into the Tizzano
Valley, we visit the megalithic sites of Fontanaccia, Stantari
and Renaghju, the best-preserved dolmen in Corsica. We continue
to the Alta Rocca region, where, following densely forested
paths, we visit the Bronze Age fortified Torréen
complex of Castellu de Cucuruzzu and the remains of Capula.
Our last stop today is the newly installed Sartine Archaeological
Museum, which displays finds from the region. Hotel Marinca.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Wednesday, May 18: AJACCIO: Touring today begins
with Filitosa, Corsica’s most important prehistoric
site. Here menhirs, carved 5,000 years ago, represent the
pinnacle of achievement for the megalithic artists. We then
continue to Ajaccio, Napoleon’s birthplace, where
a short walking tour will bring us to his house. Palazzu
U Domu Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Thursday,
May 19: ERBALUNGA: Today will be filled with ever-changing
vistas, beginning with the coastal scenery and the Bay of
Sagone, continuing as we begin our ascent into the mountains,
winding our way to Cargese. Along the way we will stop to
visit a fine Greek church decorated with 17th-century icons,
before continuing to Porto Bay via a spectacular “calanche”
of red granite. Turning inland we follow the wild Spelunca
Canyons through the Aitone Forest to Evisa, at 2,500 feet.
We then descend to the tiny fishing village of Erbalunga
on Cap Corse. Our hotel, Castel Brando, is a charming family-run
hotel centrally located near shops, restaurants and the
seacoast.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Friday, Saturday, May 20 & 21: ERBALUNGA: Our
touring begins in Aleria, capital of Corsica during the
Roman period, and continues to Mariana to see its Roman
remains and the church of San Parteo de Mariana and La Canonica.
We return to Erbalunga with time to explore the picturesque
village or relax at our hotel before our farewell dinner
at a restaurant in the old harbor.Saturday we fly toNice
to connect to our flights home.
Meals: Breakfast & farewell dinner
This
tour requires walking through large archaeological sites
on uneven terrain. For the most satisfying experience, and
in fairness to your fellow travelers, all participants are
expected to be physically active and able to walk independently
throughout our full touring days.
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