An
Archaeological Study Tour
BHUTAN
& LADAKH
The
Himalayan Kingdoms
September
1 20, 2010
Led
by Professor Gregory
Hillis
The Himalayas as an almost supernatural realm imbued with
magic and mystery and inhabited by immortal gods and sorcerers
has captured readers' imaginations for decades. Such descriptions,
however fanciful, have their origins in the breathtaking
beauty and grandeur of the Himalayan region, as well as
the deeply spiritual character of its ancient cultural
traditions. In the 21st century modernity and technology
impinge upon the entire world, and the Himalayas are no
exception. Nevertheless, the two remote Himalayan Buddhist
kingdoms of Ladakh and Bhutan have managed to preserve
their rich cultural legacies, including centuries-old
traditions of art, literature, architecture and handicrafts.
As access to Tibet has become problematic during the last
several years it is increasingly difficult for travelers
to experience firsthand its venerable and unique culture.
However, Bhutan and Ladakh, each possessing their own
unique identities, with their own histories, languages
and ethnicities, are perhaps the best repositories for
the distinctive living traditions of the Tibetan cultural
area. Our journey will take us to the Kingdom of Bhutan,
which has preserved its singular culture and lifestyle
to an amazing degree, from its textiles and diverse folk
arts, to its distinctive architecture and religious masked
dances. In Ladakh, we will witness the colorful and exciting
Ladakh Festival and visit well-preserved and historically
important sites dating from the introduction of Buddhism
in the 10th to 11th centuries.
Wednesday, Thursday, September 1 & 2: DELHI:
Independent
departures from our home cities, arriving into Delhi on
Thursday evening. We will spend Thursday night at the
Radisson New Delhi Airport Hotel.
Friday, September 3: PARO: We
will transfer back to the airport for an afternoon flight
to Bhutan, a small country sequestered in the Himalayas
with an unspoiled natural beauty, few tourists and a still
medieval society. Our tour of Paro will begin at the National
Museum, which displays a wonderful collection of ancient
and modern tankas as well as exquisite bronzes and ethnographic
materials. Touring continues in and around Paro, including
Paro Dzong, renowned for its impressive architecture.
This evening we will gather at our hotel for our first
lecture. Olathang Cottages.
Meals:
Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Saturday, September 4: THIMPHU: After
completing our Paro touring we begin a very scenic drive
across the Dochula Pass to Thimphu. We will stop en route
to visit the Simtokha Dzong, the oldest Bhutanese fortress
to have survived as a complete structure. Touring in Thimphu
will begin at the late King’s Memorial Chorten to
view its extraordinary three-dimensional mandala, and
continues at Trashi Chhoe Dzong. A symbol of the new capital,
this dzong has been built and rebuilt many times since
1216 due to fire and earthquakes. However, it still preserves
the old five-story utse (central tower) and central chapels.
We will spend the next two nights at the centrally located
Hotel River View in Thimphu.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Sunday, September 5: THIMPHU: The
day begins with a performance of mask and folk dances
by the Royal Dance Troupe at the Royal Academy of Performing
Arts. These dances, performed at Bhutan’s famous
festivals, depict the legends of this Buddhist kingdom.
After this exciting program, we will continue touring
to the Changangkha Monastery, perched on a ridge above
the town. There will be time to observe archery games,
a favorite pastime in Bhutan, between visits to the Tanka
Painting School, the National Library, noted for its collection
of manuscripts written on long strips of handmade paper,
and the Textile Museum.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Monday, September 6: PUNAKHA: We
begin a very interesting and beautiful three-hour drive
to Punakha, the capital of a unified Bhutan from the 17th
century until 1955. It is still the winter seat of the
Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot). As we descend from the 10,130
foot. Dochula Pass, the vegetation changes from blue pine
forests and apple orchards to tropical oranges, bananas
and bamboo. We will stop to visit the temple and 108 stupas
built at the pass. Passing meditation cells perched in
the hills above the road and the rocks and cliffs painted
with mantras, we find the town sprawled along the Mo Chhu
and Pho Chhu rivers. Visits here include the imposing
Wangduephodrang Dzong, situated in the higher reaches
of the Wangduephodrang valley. This valley is known for
its fine bamboo work and stone carving. We will also visit
the market, where colorfully attired vendors have come
from all over the region to sell their produce, cloth,
religious objects and household goods. Zangdok Pelri Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Tuesday, September 7: PUNAKHA: Touring
this morning begins at Nyizergang Stupa, one of the largest
in Bhutan. There will be time to stroll through the village
and some of might like to make an easy climb to Khamsum
Yuley Namgay Chorten, built recently by the royal family.
There are superb views of Punakha valley from here. This
afternoon we will visit Puakha Dzong, a grand fortress
built by Shabdrung Nawang Namgay in the mid 1600s at the
auspicious junction of the Mo Chu and Pho Chu rivers.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Wednesday, Thursday, September 8 & 9: PARO:
Driving
through the oak forests of the Black Mountains, we reach
Gangteng Gompa, established in the 17th century and the
largest Nyingma monastery west of the Black Mountains.
The monastery has three stories containing 14 chapels
and halls. Our last stop of the day will be a center where
we can see traditional carpets being woven. We will spend
this night in Gangteng.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Friday, September 10: DELHI: A
morning flight returns us to Delhi and the Hotel Radisson
New Delhi.
Meals: Breakfast
Saturday, September 11: LEH: A
morning flight brings us to Leh, capital of Ladakh, a
stronghold of Tibetan Buddhism. A true city of traders,
Leh was for centuries a strategic junction on the medieval
Silk Road between China and India. We will relax at our
hotel, the Grand Dragon, for several hours in order to
acclimatize to the altitude. In the afternoon we will
take a leisurely stroll through the fascinating lanes
and bazaars of the old town of Leh. During our stay there
will be several opportunities to attend the very colorful
Ladakh Festival an annual two week event. As the exact
program is not available until a few weeks prior to the
festival, we will adjust our schedule while we are there.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Sunday,
September 12: LEH: This
morning’s touring begins at the unique museum at
Stok Palace, which is itself about 200 years old and still
occupied by the widow of the last king. Her eldest son
will become the next King of Ladakh. The museum contains
the Royal Family’s jewelry and a fine collection
of tankas. We return to Leh for a walking tour to the
dramatic Tsemo Hill on which we find the remains of the
Royal Palace and Maitreya Temple, which houses a huge
15th-century statue of Maitreya, the Buddha of Future
Ages. Late in the afternoon we will have tea with a Ladakhi
family in their home, a unique opportunity to talk with
the family, learn how traditional tea is made and see
the interior of a traditional home.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Monday, September 13: LEH: Leaving
Leh, we drive to Spitok Gompa. The 15th century monastery
tumbles down the sides of a steep knoll to a tight cluster
of farmhouses. From here we will have a magnificent view
over the Indus Valley and the snow-capped peaks surrounding
it. The Gompa has three chapels of which the highest,
the Paldan Lumo temple (Kali Mater), is the most impressive.
We continue to the 16th-century Phyang Gompa belonging
to the Red Cap sect of Tibetan Buddhists where, in addition
to the monastery, we will see a small museum collection
of old Chinese, Tibetan and Mongolian weapons and armor.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Tuesday,
September 14: LEH: Today’s
touring will once again take us into the Ladakhi countryside.
Driving along the Indus River through picturesque traditional
villages we visit Hemis Gompa, considered the wealthiest
and most important monastery of the Ladakhi Drukpa-Kagyupa
sect. The temple has a large number of Tibetan Buddhist
manuscripts as well as an extensive collection of fine
wall paintings. We continue to Tiksay Gompa, rich in statues,
thankas and wall paintings, and Shey Palace, the old summer
palace of the kings of Ladakh.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Wednesday, September 15: ALCHI:
This wonderful day begins with a mild two-hour rafting
trip on the Indus River ending at Nimu near the confluence
of the Indus and Zanskar Rivers. Tour members who prefer
to travel by road will meet the group at Nimu, where we
will have our lunch before continuing to the fortified
monastery of Basgo, capital during the 15th and 17th centuries.
It is here in 1680 that invading Mongol and Tibetan armies
were held in check over a three year long seige The king
of Ladakh’s decision to accept military assistance
from Srinigar opened the door to Muslims, drastictly changing
the history of the region. We will spend the next three
nights at the Alchi Resort.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Thursday,
September 16: ALCHI:
A short walk brings us to the Alchi Monastery, renowned
for its massive Buddha statues, wonderfully preserved
frescoes, exceptional paintings and lavish wood carvings.
The monastery is rich with influences from surrounding
regions as seen in the well-preserved mural depicting
a royal drinking scene. Here the people are clearly wearing
central Asian dress. We will also visit Likir Gompa, founded
in the 12th-century. Likir belongs to the Yellow Hat order
and home to about 120 monks. However, it’s main
function is as a monastic school for very young novices.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Friday,
September 17: ALCHI:
A breathtakingly spectacular drive brings us to the most
remote and oldest monastery in Ladakh, Lamayuru Monastery,
perched on the hillside, with a village at its base. The
first monastery was built here in the 10th-century and
is made up of a number of shrines and also has a very
rich collection of thankas and magnificent wall paintings.
At the outset, the Lamayuru Monastery consisted of five
buildings, out of which only the central one exists today.
We will return to Alchi stopping at the Rizong Gompa.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Saturday,
September 18: LEH:
This morning we join the monks for morning prayers and
return to Leh. This evening we will gather for our farewell
dinner. Grand Dragon Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Sunday,
Monday, September 19 & 20: DELHI:
We will return to Delhi on a midmorning flight and transfer
to day rooms at the Hotel Radisson New Delhi. The remainder
of the day is at leisure before transferring to the airport
for our flight home.
Meals: Breakfast
PLEASE
NOTE: This tour is considered strenuous. It involves
travel at altitudes exceeding 15,000 feet, as well as
long but spectacular drives often over rough roads. Hotels
in Bhutan are controlled by the government and cannot
be guaranteed to be as listed. This tour is not recommended
for anyone with a heart or lung condition, any condition
that might require medical attention, or anyone who has
difficulty walking or requires a special diet.