An Archaeological Study Tour
BHUTAN The Himalayan Kingdom
August 27 – September 13, 2006
Led by Professor Gregory Hillis


The Himalayas have always been shrouded in mystery. Their majestic, remote peaks have tempted the adventurous, and their population is as varied as the landscape. Extending in the shape of an arch over 2,500 kilometers, the Himalayas form a natural frontier of enormous historic importance whose vast ranges halted the advance of such famous invaders as Alexander the Great and the Mughal conquerors of India. This tour will survey the distinctive heritage of the little-known country of Bhutan, the last surviving Mahayana Buddhist kingdom. On our journey, we will explore this exotic land’s rich ethnic and linguistic diversity, majestic scenery, traditional arts and crafts, bold architecture, as well as its state and popular forms of religion. Despite world-wide tendencies towards globalization and cultural homogenization, Bhutan, a country the size of Switzerland with a population of approximately 600,000, has succeeded in maintaining its unique culture and environment.

Sunday, August 27: Depart Los Angeles on Thai Airways.

Monday, August 28: BANGKOK: We arrive into Bangkok this evening and transfer to the Amari Airport Hotel, connected to the airport by a walkway.

Tuesday, August 29: PARO: A morning flight brings us to Bhutan, a small country sequestered in the Himalayas with an unspoiled natural beauty, few tourists, and a still medieval society. Our tour of Paro will begin at the National Museum, which displays a wonderful collection of ancient and modern thangkas as well as exquisite bronzes and ethnographic materials and Paro Dzong, renowned for its impressive architecture. Olathang Cottages/Gangtey Palace Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Wednesday, August 30: PARO: This morning we drive to Kila Goemba. After a short hike we reach the gompa, nestled in the mountainside below Chele-la pass. This extensive complex of meditation rooms and living quarters for 32 Buddhist nuns is one of the seven oldest nunneries in Bhutan. After a picnic lunch, touring continues at Drukgyel Dzong, built at a strategic point in order to control the route from Tibet. Returning to Paro, we stop at a traditional Bhutanese farmhouse and local market.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Thursday, August 31: THIMPHU: A very scenic drive across the Dochula Pass brings us to Thimphu. We will stop en route to visit the Simtokha Dzong, the oldest Bhutanese fortress to have survived as a complete structure. Touring in Thimphu will begin at the late King’s Memorial Chorten to view its extraordinary three-dimensional mandala, and continues at Trashi Chhoe Dzong. A symbol of the new capital, this dzong has been built and rebuilt many times since 1216 due to fire and earthquakes. However, it still preserves the old five-story utse (central tower) and central chapels. We will spend the next two nights at the centrally located Hotel River View in Thimphu.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Friday, September 1: THIMPHU: The day begins at the weekend market. We then attend a performance of mask and folk dances by the Royal Dance Troupe at the Royal Academy of Performing Arts. These dances, performed at Bhutan’s famous festivals, depict the legends of this Buddhist kingdom. After this exciting program, we will continue touring to the Changangkha Monastery, perched on a ridge above town. There will be time to observe archery games, a favorite pastime in Bhutan, between visits to the Tanka Painting School, the National Library, noted for its collection of manuscripts written on long strips of handmade paper, the Traditional Medicine Center and the Textile Museum.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch

Saturday, Sunday, September 2 & 3 PUNAKHA: After a morning at leisure to explore Thimphu, we begin a very interesting and beautiful three-hour drive to Punakha, the capital of a unified Bhutan from the 17th century until 1955. It is still the winter seat of the Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot). As we descend from the 10,130-ft. Dochula Pass, the vegetation changes from blue pine forests and apple orchards to tropical oranges, bananas and bamboo. Passing meditation cells perched in the hills above the road and the rocks and cliffs painted with mantras, we find the town sprawled along the Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu rivers. Visits here include the imposing Punakha Dzong, strategically occupying the land between the two rivers, Nyizergang Stupa, one of the largest in Bhutan, and Wangduephodrang Dzong, situated in the higher reaches of the Wangduephodrang valley. This valley is known for its fine bamboo work and stone carving. We also visit the market, where colorfully attired vendors have come from all over the region to sell their produce, cloth, religious objects and household goods. Zangdok Pelri Hotel/YT Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast & dinner

Monday, September 4: GANGTENG: Driving through the oak forests of the Black Mountains, we reach Gangteng Gompa, established in the 17th century and the largest Nyingma monastery west of the Black Mountains. The monastery has three stories containing 14 chapels and halls. Our last stop of the day will be a center where we can see traditional carpets being woven. We will spend this night in Gangteng.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Tuesday, Wednesday, September 5 & 6: TRONGSA: Passing Chendebji Chorten, we reach Trongsa, perched on the slopes above a river gorge. Here we will visit Chokhor Rabtentse Dzong, largest and most impressive in Bhutan. Built in 1648, the first kings of Bhutan ruled the country from this seat. All four kings were invested as Trongsa Penlop (governor) prior to ascending the throne, and the present Crown Prince now holds the post. The position of Ta Dzong watchtower and Trongsa Dzong enabled the Trongsa Penlop to control the whole of the central and eastern regions of the country. Wednesday we will make a side trip south into wonderful farmland to visit Kuenga Rabten Phodrang, the former winter palace of the second king. Yangkhyil Resort.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Thursday, Friday, Saturday, September 7, 8 & 9: BUMTHANG/JAKAR: We now cross Yotong La pass and enter the Chu-me valley and into the Bumthang valley where we will spend three days. This lovely valley is the religious heartland of Bhutan and home to some of its oldest Buddhist temples and monasteries. Although we are not permitted to enter Jambey Lhakhang and Kurje Lhakhang, we will view them from the outside. Originally built in the 7th century by the Tibetan king as one of 108 monasteries he built to subdue evil spirits, Jambey Lhakhang was rebuilt in the 20th century. Among the many sites we will visit is Tamshing Lhakhang, founded in 1501 by Terton Pema Lingpa, a reincarnation of Guru Padmasambhava, and renowned for its very old paintings on the inner walls of the temple, and Jakar Dzong, one of the largest in Bhutan. This elegant structure with impressive fortress wall is the summer base for the monastic community of Chotse Dzong. We also hope to gain permission to visit Tharpling Jangchub Choling, dated by literary sources to 1352. During our stay we will visit a center for yathra weaving and, time permitting, we will make an excursion into the Ura Valley, visiting villages of closely built shingled houses and cobbled streets, as well as the Ura Lhakhang, built in 1986 and dedicated to Guru Padmakara. Mountain Lodge.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Sunday, September 10: CHUZOMSA/PUNAKHA: We will make our way back to Paro, stopping on the way for photos and spending the night at the comfortable Kichu Hotel in the Dang chu valley or in Punakha.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Monday, September 11: PARO: We return to Paro, arriving in the late afternoon for our last night in Bhutan. This evening we toast our adventures at our farewell dinner.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Tuesday, September 12: BANGKOK: A morning departure brings via Calcutta to Bangkok, where we arrive midday and spend the night at the Amari Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast

Wednesday, September 13: Our Thai Airways flight departs early this morning.
Meals: Breakfast

PLEASE NOTE: This tour is considered strenuous. It involves travel at altitudes exceeding 15,000 feet, as well as long but spectacular drives often over rough roads. Hotels are controlled by the government and cannot be guaranteed to be as listed. This tour is not recommended for anyone with a heart or lung condition, any condition that might require medical attention, or anyone who has difficulty walking or requires a special diet.