An Archaeological Study Tour
BHUTAN & LADAKH

The Himalayan Kingdoms
September 1 – 20, 2010
Led by Professor Gregory Hillis


The Himalayas as an almost supernatural realm imbued with magic and mystery and inhabited by immortal gods and sorcerers has captured readers' imaginations for decades. Such descriptions, however fanciful, have their origins in the breathtaking beauty and grandeur of the Himalayan region, as well as the deeply spiritual character of its ancient cultural traditions. In the 21st century modernity and technology impinge upon the entire world, and the Himalayas are no exception. Nevertheless, the two remote Himalayan Buddhist kingdoms of Ladakh and Bhutan have managed to preserve their rich cultural legacies, including centuries-old traditions of art, literature, architecture and handicrafts. As access to Tibet has become problematic during the last several years it is increasingly difficult for travelers to experience firsthand its venerable and unique culture. However, Bhutan and Ladakh, each possessing their own unique identities, with their own histories, languages and ethnicities, are perhaps the best repositories for the distinctive living traditions of the Tibetan cultural area. Our journey will take us to the Kingdom of Bhutan, which has preserved its singular culture and lifestyle to an amazing degree, from its textiles and diverse folk arts, to its distinctive architecture and religious masked dances. In Ladakh, we will witness the colorful and exciting Ladakh Festival and visit well-preserved and historically important sites dating from the introduction of Buddhism in the 10th to 11th centuries.


Wednesday, Thursday, September 1 & 2: DELHI: Independent departures from our home cities, arriving into Delhi on Thursday evening. We will spend Thursday night at the Radisson New Delhi Airport Hotel.

Friday, September 3: PARO: We will transfer back to the airport for an afternoon flight to Bhutan, a small country sequestered in the Himalayas with an unspoiled natural beauty, few tourists and a still medieval society. Our tour of Paro will begin at the National Museum, which displays a wonderful collection of ancient and modern tankas as well as exquisite bronzes and ethnographic materials. Touring continues in and around Paro, including Paro Dzong, renowned for its impressive architecture. This evening we will gather at our hotel for our first lecture. Olathang Cottages.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Saturday, September 4: THIMPHU: After completing our Paro touring we begin a very scenic drive across the Dochula Pass to Thimphu. We will stop en route to visit the Simtokha Dzong, the oldest Bhutanese fortress to have survived as a complete structure. Touring in Thimphu will begin at the late King’s Memorial Chorten to view its extraordinary three-dimensional mandala, and continues at Trashi Chhoe Dzong. A symbol of the new capital, this dzong has been built and rebuilt many times since 1216 due to fire and earthquakes. However, it still preserves the old five-story utse (central tower) and central chapels. We will spend the next two nights at the centrally located Hotel River View in Thimphu.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Sunday, September 5: THIMPHU: The day begins with a performance of mask and folk dances by the Royal Dance Troupe at the Royal Academy of Performing Arts. These dances, performed at Bhutan’s famous festivals, depict the legends of this Buddhist kingdom. After this exciting program, we will continue touring to the Changangkha Monastery, perched on a ridge above the town. There will be time to observe archery games, a favorite pastime in Bhutan, between visits to the Tanka Painting School, the National Library, noted for its collection of manuscripts written on long strips of handmade paper, and the Textile Museum.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch

Monday, September 6: PUNAKHA: We begin a very interesting and beautiful three-hour drive to Punakha, the capital of a unified Bhutan from the 17th century until 1955. It is still the winter seat of the Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot). As we descend from the 10,130 foot. Dochula Pass, the vegetation changes from blue pine forests and apple orchards to tropical oranges, bananas and bamboo. We will stop to visit the temple and 108 stupas built at the pass. Passing meditation cells perched in the hills above the road and the rocks and cliffs painted with mantras, we find the town sprawled along the Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu rivers. Visits here include the imposing Wangduephodrang Dzong, situated in the higher reaches of the Wangduephodrang valley. This valley is known for its fine bamboo work and stone carving. We will also visit the market, where colorfully attired vendors have come from all over the region to sell their produce, cloth, religious objects and household goods. Zangdok Pelri Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Tuesday, September 7: PUNAKHA: Touring this morning begins at Nyizergang Stupa, one of the largest in Bhutan. There will be time to stroll through the village and some of might like to make an easy climb to Khamsum Yuley Namgay Chorten, built recently by the royal family. There are superb views of Punakha valley from here. This afternoon we will visit Puakha Dzong, a grand fortress built by Shabdrung Nawang Namgay in the mid 1600s at the auspicious junction of the Mo Chu and Pho Chu rivers.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Wednesday, Thursday, September  8 & 9: PARO: Driving through the oak forests of the Black Mountains, we reach Gangteng Gompa, established in the 17th century and the largest Nyingma monastery west of the Black Mountains. The monastery has three stories containing 14 chapels and halls. Our last stop of the day will be a center where we can see traditional carpets being woven. We will spend this night in Gangteng.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Friday, September 10: DELHI: A morning flight returns us to Delhi and the Hotel Radisson New Delhi.
Meals: Breakfast

Saturday, September 11: LEH: A morning flight brings us to Leh, capital of Ladakh, a stronghold of Tibetan Buddhism. A true city of traders, Leh was for centuries a strategic junction on the medieval Silk Road between China and India. We will relax at our hotel, the Grand Dragon, for several hours in order to acclimatize to the altitude. In the afternoon we will take a leisurely stroll through the fascinating lanes and bazaars of the old town of Leh. During our stay there will be several opportunities to attend the very colorful Ladakh Festival an annual two week event. As the exact program is not available until a few weeks prior to the festival, we will adjust our schedule while we are there.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Sunday, September 12: LEH: This morning’s touring begins at the unique museum at Stok Palace, which is itself about 200 years old and still occupied by the widow of the last king. Her eldest son will become the next King of Ladakh. The museum contains the Royal Family’s jewelry and a fine collection of tankas. We return to Leh for a walking tour to the dramatic Tsemo Hill on which we find the remains of the Royal Palace and Maitreya Temple, which houses a huge 15th-century statue of Maitreya, the Buddha of Future Ages. Late in the afternoon we will have tea with a Ladakhi family in their home, a unique opportunity to talk with the family, learn how traditional tea is made and see the interior of a traditional home.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Monday, September 13: LEH: Leaving Leh, we drive to Spitok Gompa. The 15th century monastery tumbles down the sides of a steep knoll to a tight cluster of farmhouses. From here we will have a magnificent view over the Indus Valley and the snow-capped peaks surrounding it. The Gompa has three chapels of which the highest, the Paldan Lumo temple (Kali Mater), is the most impressive. We continue to the 16th-century Phyang Gompa belonging to the Red Cap sect of Tibetan Buddhists where, in addition to the monastery, we will see a small museum collection of old Chinese, Tibetan and Mongolian weapons and armor.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Tuesday, September 14: LEH: Today’s touring will once again take us into the Ladakhi countryside. Driving along the Indus River through picturesque traditional villages we visit Hemis Gompa, considered the wealthiest and most important monastery of the Ladakhi Drukpa-Kagyupa sect. The temple has a large number of Tibetan Buddhist manuscripts as well as an extensive collection of fine wall paintings. We continue to Tiksay Gompa, rich in statues, thankas and wall paintings, and Shey Palace, the old summer palace of the kings of Ladakh.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Wednesday, September 15: ALCHI: This wonderful day begins with a mild two-hour rafting trip on the Indus River ending at Nimu near the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar Rivers. Tour members who prefer to travel by road will meet the group at Nimu, where we will have our lunch before continuing to the fortified monastery of Basgo, capital during the 15th and 17th centuries. It is here in 1680 that invading Mongol and Tibetan armies were held in check over a three year long seige The king of Ladakh’s decision to accept military assistance from Srinigar opened the door to Muslims, drastictly changing the history of the region. We will spend the next three nights at the Alchi Resort.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Thursday, September 16: ALCHI: A short walk brings us to the Alchi Monastery, renowned for its massive Buddha statues, wonderfully preserved frescoes, exceptional paintings and lavish wood carvings. The monastery is rich with influences from surrounding regions as seen in the well-preserved mural depicting a royal drinking scene. Here the people are clearly wearing central Asian dress. We will also visit Likir Gompa, founded in the 12th-century. Likir belongs to the Yellow Hat order and home to about 120 monks. However, it’s main function is as a monastic school for very young novices.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Friday, September 17: ALCHI: A breathtakingly spectacular drive brings us to the most remote and oldest monastery in Ladakh, Lamayuru Monastery, perched on the hillside, with a village at its base. The first monastery was built here in the 10th-century and is made up of a number of shrines and also has a very rich collection of thankas and magnificent wall paintings. At the outset, the Lamayuru Monastery consisted of five buildings, out of which only the central one exists today. We will return to Alchi stopping at the Rizong Gompa.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Saturday, September 18: LEH: This morning we join the monks for morning prayers and return to Leh. This evening we will gather for our farewell dinner. Grand Dragon Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Sunday, Monday, September 19 & 20: DELHI: We will return to Delhi on a midmorning flight and transfer to day rooms at the Hotel Radisson New Delhi. The remainder of the day is at leisure before transferring to the airport for our flight home.
Meals: Breakfast

PLEASE NOTE: This tour is considered strenuous. It involves travel at altitudes exceeding 15,000 feet, as well as long but spectacular drives often over rough roads. Hotels in Bhutan are controlled by the government and cannot be guaranteed to be as listed. This tour is not recommended for anyone with a heart or lung condition, any condition that might require medical attention, or anyone who has difficulty walking or requires a special diet.