An Archaeological Study Tour

Oman & Zanzibar: The Sultans of Oman
December 28, 2007 – January 15, 2008

December 26, 2008 – January 13, 2009
Led by Professor Trevor Marchand


Said bin Sultan, like his father before him, strategically controlled the Strait of Hormuz and places on the northern Gulf, but it was to Africa that he directed his greatest ambitions. From 1829 he gradually extended Omani influence over the East African coast, making Zanzibar his second capital and introducing clove plantations to this luxuriant "Spice Island." Zanzibar had been familiar to Arab sailors since the time of the Periplus in the 2nd century AD, but the present site of Zanzibar town began as a Swahili settlement around the 10th century and, like most of the East African coast, it was dominated by the Portuguese for nearly two centuries. The Stone Town of today is still characterized by Omani houses, with their elaborately carved wooden doors, and the architectural embellishments of the 19th-century Gujarati merchant-traders.

We will begin our tour in Oman, steeped in history and tradition and one of the most fascinating and beautiful countries of the Arabian Peninsula. From as early as 5,000 BC, the region played a major role in the development of the ancient civilizations of western Asia, while its own numerous civilizations have left a rich and varied archaeological legacy. Beginning in the intriguing capital of Muscat, we will visit several of the many incredibly well-preserved and imposing fortresses that dot the country and discover the splendid variety of architecture and building types that the country has to offer. We will visit the historic inland walled town of Nizwa, strategically situated at the end of the Sumail Pass, and stop at the ancient town of Qalhat, founded by the Persians in the 2nd century and visited by Ibn Battuta, before traveling south to visit the many historic sites around Salalah. Tour highlights include the famous Bat tombs of the Umm an-Nar period; the ancient lost city of Ubar, whose riches were founded on the frankincense trade coming north from Dhofar; and the fabulous pre-Islamic port city of Sumhuram, founded by the rulers of Shabwah. The tour ends in Dar es Salaam, visiting the surrounding arrea, prior to traveling to Zanzibar to explore the island’s rich multicultural heritage. Rugged mountains, wonderful beaches, vast sandy deserts, and lush wadis of springs and palm groves make for a superb diversity of scenery.

Friday, Saturday, December 28 & 29, 2007: MUSCAT: Depart New York on British Airways. We arrive into Muscat late Saturday evening and transfer to the deluxe Grand Hyatt Hotel Muscat.

Sunday, December 30: MUSCAT: After meeting with Professor Marchand for an opening lecture, our touring begins with a drive along the Mutrah Corniche to view the residence of the sultan, Al Alam Palace, flanked by two magnificent Portuguese forts guarding the bay. We will visit the Oman National Museum and the charming Bait al Zubair, a private museum housing traditional Omani items reflecting the country’s rich heritage. The day ends at Baushar, an important iron age site with fine examples of late Lizq, early Samad period honeycomb tombs.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch

Monday, December 31: NIZWA: We leave Muscat in our 4-wheel-drive vehicles, stopping first to visit the splendid pre-Islamic fort at Nakhl. Occupying an area of 36,597 square feet, its interior is a maze of carpet and cushion-covered rooms. Continuing through date palm oases, we view the fort of Rustaq from the outside. Built over a spring, Rustaq fort is thought to have been founded by the Persians in the pre-Islamic period. We pass Mishkin Fort and continue to Al Ayn to visit Bat. Here beehive tombs, tower forts, and large freestanding communal graves have been linked to the Umm an-Nar (2500-2000 BC) culture. After examining these unusual structures, we continue to Nizwa to spend three nights at the Falaj Daris Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Tuesday, January 1, 2008: NIZWA: Today’s touring begins at Hast bin Sult, a 20-foot rock covered with engravings of men, women and children. After hearing some of the folklore related to this site, we continue to the charming old town of Al Hamra, to walk among the old mud houses, one of which is thought to be 400 years old, and to Misfah, one of the most picturesque villages in Oman. We will tour the interior of Jabrin Castle, an excellent example of Omani residential architecture, and view the huge fort at Bahla, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, from the outside. This spectacular building is surrounded by 7.5 miles of mud-brick walls. After visiting one of the few remaining potters in this once famous pottery town, we return to Nizwa.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Wednesday, January 2: NIZWA: Touring begins with Nizwa souk and round tower fort as well as its famous falaj (ancient irrigation system). We then drive north via Sumail Pass to Samali to examine its falaj and mosque. We will visit nearby Akdar, where weavers still use the traditional methods of dyeing and pit weaving, continue to Samad, a fascinating oasis town famed for its seven watchtowers, and lastly to the beautiful little mosque at Manal.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Thursday, January 3: SUR: This exciting day will take us via Al Mudayrib, stopping to see its city gate and some of its beautiful old carved doors, into Wahiba Sands. The dune system of this immense desert is believed to have existed before the last pluvial period in Arabia around 4,000-6,000 years ago and houses hundreds of species of birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians. As we drive among the dunes soaring to 200-260 feet, we will encounter some of the Bedouin who live here herding their sheep, goats and camels. After lunch in Al Qabil, we continue to Sur for our stay at the Sur Plaza Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Friday, January 4: MUSCAT: After visiting the dhow port in Sur, we travel north to Muscat, stopping in Qalhat at the ruins of the Bibi Miriam shrine, once described by Ibn Battuta as one of the most beautiful mosques he had ever seen. We will travel through Wadi Tiwi and small fishing villages, ending at the Grand Hyatt Hotel Muscat late in the afternoon.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch

Saturday, January 5: SALALAH: A spectacular flight over the Wahiba Sands brings us to Salalah in the southern province of Dhofar. Permission is pending for our visit to the ancient city of Dhofar (Al-Baleed), not generally open to tourists. We will visit Old Salalah and some of the natural wonders in the area. Hilton Salalah Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast & dinner

Sunday, Monday, January 6 & 7: SALALAH: After visiting the museum, we drive into the Jebel Qara escarpment to Job’s Tomb, sacred to Muslims as the burial site of the patriarch. We continue into the “empty quarter” to Hanun, site of an ancient storehouse for frankincense and a small temple dedicated to the moon god Sin, placing this site as an important transit point en route to Cana and Shabwah. Finally we reach the lost city of Ubar, described as a major city on the incense route with imposing architecture, vast orchards and fabulous wealth. Excavations continue to reveal its walls and the foundations of the city. On Monday, our full day of touring begins at the pre-Islamic port of Sumhuram, founded by the rulers of Shabwah. Beautifully situated on the banks of the Khor Rawri, it is currently being excavated by an Italian team. We will visit the picturesque town of Mirbat and explore Wadi Darbat, known to house prehistoric paintings in some of its caves.

Meals: Breakfast & lunch daily

Tuesday, January 8: MUSCAT: We fly back to Muscat and relax at the Grand Hyatt Hotel Muscat before dinner.
Meals: Breakfast & dinner

Wednesday, Thursday, January 9 & 10: DAR ES SALAAM:  Wednesday morning we depart for Dar es Salaam. That evening we will meet for an introduction to Zanzibar followed by dinner. Thursday touring begins at the National Museum. We will then have a brief city tour before driving to the north of the city to examine the fascinating tombstones at Kunduchi Cemetery. As was common in this region, these tombstones are embedded with Chinese porcelain bowls. Sea Cliff Hotel.

Meals: Breakfast daily, 1 lunch & 1 dinner

Friday, January 11: ZANZIBAR: This morning our chartered flight brings us to the lush, romantic island of Zanzibar for four nights at the beautiful Serena Inn, perfectly set on the shore of the Indian Ocean. Today’s in-depth walking tour of Stone Town examines its unique architecture, influenced by a mix of Arab, Indian, European and African traditions. The marvelous Zanzibari carved wooden doors, no two alike, are a symbol of the once wealthy householders who lived within. We will take a long break midday and regroup in the late afternoon to continue our walking tour, ending our day with a lecture by a representative of the Archives or the Preservation Society.

Meals: Breakfast & dinner

Saturday, Sunday, January 12 & 13: ZANZIBAR: Traveling north through verdant countryside, we visit the ruins of Maruhubi Palace, built by Sultan Barghash in 1882 to house his harem, and the Mtoni Palace and Persian Baths built for the Persian wife of Sultan Seyyid Said. At Mvuleni and Fukuchani we will explore the remains of Portuguese settlements and continue to the tip of the island, where traditional dhows are still being built. After lunch and a swim at the Serena Inn’s restaurant at Mangapwani beach, we will visit several spice plantations to examine the bushes and trees from which nutmeg, cinnamon, black pepper, cardamom, vanilla, and Zanzibar’s famous cloves are produced. Monday’s touring includes the old palace at Dunga and the oldest mosque in East Africa at Kizimkazi. The mihrab of this unusual Shirazi mosque is inscribed on one side with the Arabic date 500 H (1107 AD) in beautiful Kufic writing, and on the other, its restoration date (1800) is inscribed in coral. We will spend the afternoon in Jozani Forest, home to the whimsical-looking red colobus monkey and dozens of species of butterflies, birds, bush babies, and other animals. A sunset sail on a traditional dhow will end our day.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch daily & 1 dinner

Monday, January 14: ZANZIBAR: Our last day on Zanzibar will be at leisure to enjoy the many activities available at our hotel. This evening we will gather for dinner and a performance of Taarab music, Zanzibar’s most traditional music.

Meals: Breakfast & dinner

Tuesday, January 15: We fly to Dar es Salaam to connect to our British Airways flight to New York via London.